After a major hamstring tear, he set out on a crazy training regime, which led to him claim the world title the very next year in spectacular fashion.

This was the catalyst that changed the way surfers prepared from that moment forward. 

Gone were the days of surfers using just surfing itself as a means of training, and in came a new wave of surfers taking things much more seriously. Rigorous training regimes and personal coaches became commonplace. 

This is when surf coaching became a real thing. 

THE RISE OF THE SURF COACH

In came a number of elite coaches, coaching the worlds best:

Now, the world's best have their own personal coaches. 

As a team they could dissect technique, address areas of weakness and fine tune their strengths. 

This acceptance of external coaching has led to the rise in everyday surfers getting help too.

Whereas in the past surfers were expected to learn everything on their own (kind of mental when you think about it), to just kind of figure it all out, now they can get expert feedback. 

This is saving many people countless hours of butting their heads against the wall. 

IS IT STILL WEIRD TO GET COACHED?

There’s still a certain stigma in surfing with getting coached, especially in older dudes. 

For whatever reason men seem to think they can do everything on their own and are reluctant to reach out for help. I get it, I'm one of them. 

Women on the other hand seem to be way more receptive, and are flocking in their hoards to surfing programs, online coaching, e-learning, the lot. 

The same goes for kids too, with after school squads and elite academy’s servicing the growing number of kids entering the sport. 

So I guess the answer to “is it still weird to get coached” is nah, not really - and it’s heading way more to “nah, not at all”.

IS COACHING WORTH IT?

First up, there's absolutely nothing wrong with just surfing for the love of it, but for me personally that's not enough. 

Surfing just for surfing's sake - without trying to get better - takes away much of the fun if you ask me. In fact the reason surfing is so addictive is because it's so damn hard. 

And yes, you can learn everything on your own to a degree (you've got to live and surf where there are plenty of people much, much better than you to learn from), but there's certainly merit in getting additional help. 

Whether coaching is worth it however depends massively on the person giving you advice, if they know what they're talking about then yup, surf coaching is definitely worth it. 

If they're full of shit however, they're feedback is worthless. 

THE BEST TYPES OF SURF COACHING

If you're looking at different ways to get coached, here are a few of the best examples:

SELF LEARNING

If you're going down the self learning route here are some valid places to start:

- Online Courses

- YouTube

- Blog Content

- Surf Videos

SURF VIDEO ANALYSIS

This one is great as you get one on one feedback with a professional coach. 

Your coach can dissect your surfing frame by frame, uncover any blindspots, and give you a crystal clear pathway of progression to follow. 

If you ask me, this is a great way to go.

SURF SCHOOLS

Surf Schools can be a good place to go for private surf lessons, but, the quality of the coaching can be a bit of a mixed bag. 

The threshold for surf coaches is very, very, very low - so it's really difficult to every know what you're getting. 

Sure, you might get a guru that's worth their weight in gold, but you might also get a stinker too, so tread with caution.

CONCLUSION

In short, the sentiment to surf coaching is changing, little by little. 

So, if you're stuck in a rut, don't just rot away like the rest of them, get some help. 

Nobody wants to be crap forever. 

Yew!
Rowan.

The fear of waves, or swell if you like is called cymophobia and it's described as "...an excessive and irrational fear of waves or large bodies of water, particularly the ocean."

There is another term that you should know too: thalassophobia. 

Thalassophobia is the fear of the sea or ocean (not necessarily the waves).

I'm going to confuse once more here, and add another random term: megahydrothalassophobia.

A mouthful I know, this phobia is an irrational fear of large things underwater, things like marine life, rocks, etc. 

Whether it's just waves you're scared of, or a bit of all three, at least now you know what it's all called. 

WHY AM I SCARED OF BIG WAVES?

Being scared of big waves is a natural, evolved, healthy, autonomic bodily response.

Fear, along with the fight and flight response is generated by the body to keep you out of danger.

Without this ingrained fear, human beings would likely not be around today, so in an evolutionary sense, it’s served us well.

What our evolution didn’t anticipate for however was just how damn fun surfing is, and how exhilarating it can be surfing bigger waves.

HOW TO STAY CALM & OVERCOME A FEAR OF BIG WAVES IN 6 STEPS

Below you're going to learn how to stay calm in bigger waves, and how to build confidence too, all in six neat little steps:

STEP 1. UNPACK IT

To overcome a fear of big waves it’s first important to unpack it. 

Unpack, unravel, and understand.

Why, well, just understanding what’s happening to the body when it’s engulfed in fear goes a long way to diffusing it and loosening its grip on you. 

So, in simple ‘layman’s’ terms, here’s what happens to the body:

BLOOD FLOW DECREASES TO THE BRAIN'S FRONTAL LOBE

During a fight or flight response the blood flow to the brain’s frontal lobe decreases.

This is the part of the brain used for logical thinking and planning.

WHY IS THIS BAD: In a dangerous situation in the water the last thing you want to do is start thinking irrationally.

This type of thinking will put you in more danger than almost everything else put together.

HEART RATE INCREASE

During this process the heart rate rapidly increases to pump more blood around the body.

WHY THIS IS BAD: An increase in heart rate makes the body burn through oxygen at a much higher rate.

Increased oxygen burn rate means decreased breath hold times underwater.

BLOOD PRESSURE INCREASE

Alongside the heart rate increase your blood pressure increases too.

This helps the heart pump more blood around the body faster.

WHY THIS IS BAD: Same as above, increased oxygen burn rates means decreased breath hold times underwater.

BREATH RATE INCREASE

As your body’s fight and flight response goes into overdrive, it must take on more oxygen to fuel the process - hence the increased breath rate.

WHY IS THIS BAD: Underwater, the one thing you don’t have is the ability to take on more breath - regardless of how much your body craves it.

An increased breath rate does nothing for you in the water.

INCREASED MUSCLE TENSION

In a fight or flight scenario the muscles in the body tense up, ready for combat or to flee.

WHY IS THIS BAD: Increased muscle tension means one thing, increased O2 burn rate.

Again, the exact opposite of what you want when you’re being held underwater.

STEP 2. MANAGING TRAUMA

If you’ve had a bad experience in bigger waves in the past, it’s very likely that you’re carrying along with you some associated trauma. 

Does this doom you to forever be the victim to a past event?

No, it doesn’t. In fact trauma (when looked at from a different view point) is not something that is happening to you, outside of your control, instead it’s self-generated.

And if it’s self generated, that means you are in control. 

It doesn’t mean overcoming past trauma is easy, but you are not trapped by it, and there are ways to move past it. 

STEP 3. MASTER YOUR MIND

Your mind, when left to its own devices does not always serve you well. 

In fact as humans we all have an inbuilt negative bias that can hold us back in many areas of life. 

Understanding that you are not your mind (you’re not just in case you didn’t know), creates separation, and with that separation things can be seen from afar - for what they really are. 

Spending a little introspective time, looking within from afar, will help to disarm any negative narratives that don’t serve you and build new positive narratives that do. 

STEP 4. BREATH

It’s weird I know, but most people don’t know how to breathe properly, and definitely don’t know how to breathe effectively to help them in the surf. 

We’ve got a whole course teaching how to double your breath hold times underwater, but to keep things quick, here are a few pointers:

CO2 INTOLERANCE CAUSES CONTRACTIONS

Did you know that it’s actually CO2 build up that causes the onset of those nasty diaphragm contractions, NOT lack of Oxygen?

Well it’s true.

Increase your CO2 tolerance and you’ll keep those contractions at bay for longer. 

FULLY IN, FULLY OUT

Most surfers only fill their lungs with about 60% Oxygen with a big in-breath. 

Why?

They fail to remove the old CO2 fully first, and fail to fill the lungs (the right way) second. 

Get a full, complete in-breath - maxed out with fresh O2 - and you’ll stay chill underwater for much longer. 

STEP 5. EXPOSURE

To overcome any fear, you’ve got to expose yourself to it, even if it’s only baby steps. 

Exposure will help you to touch the edges of your threshold, understand it’s ok, and allow you to build up new autonomic bodily responses as a result. 

Increased exposure to incrementally bigger waves will slowly but surely help you to overcome a fear of big waves.

It’s no coincidence that all Hawaiians charge big surf, right?

STEP 6. FRONT LOADING

At the House of Surf we’re pretty big fans of front loading; do the work, and avoid putting yourself in sketchy situations in the first place.

So, here’s what you can do to plan to win rather than fail.

- Practice CO2 & O2 tables (breathing exercises to increase tolerance)

- Check your gear (check legrope, fins and board for defects before they break leaving you in a compromised situation).

- Understand how to conserve energy in the surf (more energy, more ability to handle underwater situations, easier to stay relaxed).

CONCLUSION

Overcoming a fear of big waves will take time, but it’s time well spent. 

We’re not talking about surfing massive waves like you see on the internet, but being able to surf everyday waves without being scared, enabling you to playfully attack the surf with reckless abandon. 

Get to this place and your surfing ability will go through the roof too I promise 

WHAT IS ZEN

Zen is a practice for creating stillness in the mind, cultivating awareness and insight. 

You might be familiar with Zen Buddhists who spend much of their day in meditation or Zen practice.

Their goal?

To separate oneself from the persistent chattering of the mind, and find peace in day to day life - regardless of external conditions.

A daily Zen practice then, can go a long way to adding a sense of wholeness and peace - which is a beautiful thing - especially in today's hectic times.

Luckily for you, it turns out that surfing is the ultimate Zen practice (just one of the many health benefits of surfing) whether you like it or not, and here’s why…

5 REASONS WHY SURFING IS THE BEST ZEN PRACTICE YOU CAN DO

There are five things that constitute an effective Zen practice, and it just so happens that surfing ticks all those boxes: 

1. SURFING & SIMPLICITY

A key hallmark of any Zen practice is simplicity, and surfing has this in buckets. 

Unlike other sports, surfing is an individual pursuit, just you, your surfboard, and the ocean. 

No phone, nobody nagging you, no chores, and no external distractions.

It's simplicity at its finest, and that's why it's so calming.

2. SURFING REGULARITY

Regularity and routine are essential for any Zen practice.

Therefore surfing on a regular basis, daily if you can (regardless of the conditions), will help as part of this practice, helping to cultivate a deeper connection with oneself and the world around you.

Surfing regularly also instills discipline, some that when cultivated, brings with it internal rewards.

3. THE ULTIMATE AWARENESS

Zen practice is about bringing awareness into all aspects of your life, whether that’s doing the dishes, eating, or working - all of it.

But it can be very challenging to do this at first, especially for the novice. 

Surfing is great though because it brings about that full awareness, present to the ever fluctuation conditions around you, whether you try to do it or not.

It kinda just happens. 

Surfing is a constant dance, observing, letting go, and connecting to your surroundings.

4. SURFING & MINDFULNESS

99.99% of human beings spend 99.99% of their time stuck in their heads.

A constant chattering of thoughts, on loop 24/7. 

This isn’t good, and it’s enough to drive anyone mad. 

With so much happening around you, and so much happening within your head, surfing gives you that brief window where that’s not the case, where thoughts are allowed to slip away, and where you must be mindful of everything around you. 

Feeling sensations as they arise: your breath, your body, your surroundings.

5. TEACHER/STUDENT RELATIONSHIP

A teacher-student relationship is considered important in Zen teaching, and what better teacher than surfing and the ocean itself. 

When you quieten the mind you can tune in, and listen to the ebbs and flows of the oceans movements.

Over time you learn to synchronise your movements with its, internally understanding where you should be and when, which waves to go and why.

In surfing we call this being in-sync, and they're all lessons you can learn if you open yourself up to them and allow them in.

CONCLUSION

The journey of Zen isn’t really a journey as there’s no place to get to, nowhere to go, rather its a state of being. 

Paradoxically you can’t get there by doing anything, only by stripping away and being.

And the good thing is, all this cool shit happens whether you like it or not. 

If you surf, you'll feel more Zen, simples. 

Boom! That just happened.

Yew!

Rowan

9 REASONS WHY SURFERS ARE SO CHILL (IN AND OUT OF THE WATER)

1. LIFESTYLE, NOT JUST A SPORT

People on the outside think that surfing is just a sport, like tennis, or golf, but it’s not, it’s more than that. 

It’s a lifestyle. 

Surfers don’t just surf and that’s it, they’re the living breathing embodiment of the sport - and all that comes with it. 

That means fires on the beach, sunset beers, flat day rock jumping, travel to exotic places...

All of these things are frickin fun, and devoid of any stress (apart from the rock jumping maybe…).

2. THE BYPRODUCT IS FITNESS

It's well documented that exercise releases endorphins into the body, and this chemical is said to increase happiness, and decrease stress. 

The perfect recipe for being chill right there. 

More over, unlike other exercises you can do, the goal with surfing isn’t to get fit and workout, it’s a byproduct. 

So you get all the good stuff, without any of the bad. 

3. VITAMIN D A-PLENTY

You won’t find a surfer on the planet that is vitamin-D deficient. 

Zero. 

Why is that?

As a byproduct of doing the sport that they love, they get plenty of exposure to natural sunlight, and all its juicy vitamin-D goodness. 

So you’re not just working on your tan when you’re in the surf, you’re staying healthy too. 

Double whammy.

4. SURFING IS ZEN

The act of surfing itself is the perfect Zen practice. 

You might have noticed how in the water many of the stresses of life drift away, the stresses of work, family, and everything else simply melt away when you’re in the surf. 

It’s because the act of being in the ocean, by yourself, just you and the ebbs and flows of the nature allow you to escape the grind of day to day life - taking you out of your head, freeing you from stress.

5. MAMMALIAN DIVE REFLEX

There’s a biological phenomena in humans called the mammalian dive reflex (or off-switch) that’s triggered when immersed in water. 

Here’s what happens:

And a whole lot more. 

All in all, the mammalian dive reflex completely changes your physiology, reducing stress hormones in the process. 

An involuntary response, that’s de-stressing you whether you like it or not.

6. ENCOURAGES HEALTHY LIVING

Surf culture used to be about hitting it hard, late night partying, and copious amounts of drugs. 

But things have changed a lot since then.

Nowadays it’s all about the healthy living lifestyle. 

And it makes sense.

The health benefits of surfing are well documented, and in order to do your best surfing you need to be fit and healthy.

If you’re waking up all groggy, hungover, and not at your best,  that's just not going to happen.

7. THEY’VE FOUND THEIR TRUE NORTH

Surfers are chill because they’ve found their true North in life.

They’ve found the thing in their lives that gives them purpose and meaning, the burning desire that’s going to get them out of bed before sunrise, put on a wet wetsuit and jump into freezing cold water.

They’ve found their thing, and there aren’t too many people in life that can say the same thing. 

This is the gift that keeps on giving for surfers, and it’s a big reason why they’re so chilled out the whole time.

8. YOUTHFUL OUTLOOK

How many adults do you know that play?

Not playing the stocks, or playing with themselves (lol), but actually carefree playing.

Not many am I right.

You see, surfers play like kids every time they hit the water, and this keeps the youthful exuberance emanating. 

Surfers have got better things to do than blow leaves, vacuum the house, clean the bathroom - and all that boring crap. 

They just want to go surf, the rest can wait.

CONCLUSION

Are surfers chill because they’re just avoiding the grown up responsibilities of an adult life?

Or is it precisely because they put surfing ahead of all the boring, mundane, stressful tasks that they remain happy, chill and healthy whilst everyone around them is pickled with stress? 

Whatever the reasons, avoiding stress in your life can save your life, so never feel guilty, and never apologise for dedicating your life to the sport.

Yew!

Rowan

5 BENEFITS OF SURFING IN WINTER

If you’re one of those people that only surf in the summer you’re totally missing out. 

I’m serious.

Surfing in the summer is fun, but it’s way more fun after a winter of surfing-flat out with all the skills you accumulate. 

There’s so much to be said for surfing all year around rather than just being a fair weather summer surfer as you’re about to find out. 

1. DON’T STAGNATE, IMPROVE

If you’re one of those people that surf only in summer, I guarantee the following holds true:

You’ve been surfing a long time, and you’re basically the same level you’ve always been.

Am I right?

I bet I am. 

You see here’s the thing, my brother has been surfing for about 20 years, only never fully committed to doing it all year around. 

The result? 

He’s basically the exact same level as he was all those years ago. 

If you surf in winter though, you can expect to improve year on year, and constantly be improving your skills, rather than stagnating. 

2. STAY FIT ALL WINTER LONG

Do you put on a couple of extra pounds in the winter?

Go on, be honest…

I get it though, it’s hard to motivate yourself to go to the gym, go for a run, or do any exercise for that matter in the winter. 

So why not give all those other boring exercises the flick and just go surfing instead.

You’ll have heaps of fun, stop yourself from getting fat, and free yourself from the guilt of not doing any exercise.

Win, win.

3. NO MORE CROWDS

Surfing is getting more and more popular, and as such line ups are getting ever more crowded. 

Which means less waves for you. 

But since most of those people are fair weather surfers (like you used to be…), they’re nowhere to be seen surfing in winter.

Their loss, your gain. 

Surfing in winter means less and more waves for you, that’s got to be worth the hardship right?

4. WINTER TAN

Winter time is generally spent tucked up indoors with little to no exposure to the sun. 

And this means you’re usually pale as pale can be. 

Surfers that surf through winter though inadvertently expose themselves to the suns rays as a byproduct of getting in the water, resulting in tanned, glowing skin. 

You’ll be the one strutting your stuff looking like you’ve just been on a permanent holiday all winter long.

5. GOODBYE WINTER BLUES

Winter can be a hard time for a lot of people. 

Dark mornings, and early nights, with way too much time spent indoors. 

This can lead to the winter blues, boredom, wow-is-me-ism, and even depression. 

But it doesn’t have to be this way, simply committing to surfing all winter long can snap you out of your own head and give you that Zen practice that’ll keep you fulfilled and energised all winter long.

CONCLUSION

Surfing in winter isn’t just some macho bravado stuff that people do to look cool, far from it. 

It’s a way to keep active, keep energised, stay healthy and vibrant, and improve your surfing at the same time. 

So, don’t be one of those people that are so put off by surfing in cold water that they just stop as soon as the seasons change. 

Keep with it, and keep enjoying all of the incredible health benefits surfing has to offer.

Yew!

Rowan

10 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE DATING A SURFER

1. SURFING IS FIRST, YOU COME SECOND

I hate to break it to you, but if you’re dating a surfer you’ll never be number one, ever.

Surfing will always come first. 

It’s not that they have anything against you (far from it), it’s just that they have this burning internal need, where they just have to surf no matter what. 

Lots of people can become jealous or resentful about this, but understand it’s not about you, as once surfing has you hooked, you could be Kate Moss or Brad Pitt and won’t matter - surfing always comes first.

2. KISS GOODBYE TO THAT TRIP TO PARIS

If you date a surfer, you’ll never, ever, go on a holiday again to a destination that doesn’t have surf. 

Greece? Nah.

Croatia? Nah.

Bali? Hell Yeah!

Understanding and accepting this will make dating a surfer just that little bit more bearable…

3. MUST LIVE NEAR THE COAST

If you have career aspirations of working your way up the corporate ladder in a city, chances are that dating a surfer is not going to be for you. 

They’ll choose the coast over the city every day of the week, in fact most surfers are miserable and bored shitless in the city, not knowing what to do with themselves. 

So if you’re not a country coastal bumpkin watch out, as trying to drag a surfer to the city is not going to end well.

4. SURFING COMES BEFORE CAREER

Like we mentioned in point number one, surfing comes first, you hopefully/maybe second, and career a distant third at best. 

Why?

Well, the two are diametrically opposed. 

The more serious the career, the less time spent in the ocean.

The career can always wait, but the surf cannot.

5. WORK TO LIVE NOT LIVE TO WORK

Some people bury themselves in their occupation, defined by the number of hours they work or the money they make.

Surfers are different.

They work to be able to surf more - and that’s it. 

They’re not saving for a house deposit, or investing in index funds, they're working as little as possible, to surf as much as possible.

Simples.

6. MONEY IS FOR SURFING AND TRAVEL, NOT STUFF (OR YOU)

The money that surfers do make, will be carefully segmented and cared for like Gollum and his ring, because this “precious” treasure chest is what will pay for their winter long surf trips abroad. 

It’s not for stuff, for the latest Dyson vacuum, posh dinner crockery, or new car.

And it’s not going to be spent taking you out for dinner either (unless that’s a Nasi Goreng in deep Indo that is).

7. THEY’LL BE GONE FOR HOURS - IF NOT DAYS - WHEN THE SURF IS GOOD

When the surf is on, it’s on. 

That means the surfer you’re dating will likely be gone for hours on end, if not days. 

They’ll drive for miles chasing swells, surfing all day long and oftentimes sleeping rough in their cars for dawny sessions the next day.

It’s all part and parcel of dating a surfer, so you’d better get used to it.

8. THEY’LL EAT ALL THE FOOD IN YOUR FRIDGE

Surfers eat lots, and lots, and lots of food. 

So beware. 

When they swing by your house they’ll demolish everything in your fridge, and devour everything in your cupboards. 

You’ve been warned!

9. THEY’LL CARE MORE ABOUT WHO YOU ARE, OVER WHAT YOU HAVE

If you’re one of those people that chases status, it’s likely that dating a surfer isn’t for you.

They’ll care much about who you are, what you’re outlook on life is, and how fun you are, over what you have and your status. 

It’s nothing personal, they just don’t care about all that crap.

10. WILL BE TERRIBLE AT MAKING PLANS

If you’re a planner, prepare to be let down.

Just saying. 

Surfers are terrible at making - and sticking - to plans. 

The biggest time horizon of commitment you’ll get from a surfer is likely around 4 hours (ish), anything longer and you’ll be met with resistance.

Again it’s not you, it’s just their lives revolve around the ebbs and flows of the ocean, and if the surf turns on they need to be ready.

CONCLUSION

What’s it like to date a surfer?

Fun, action packed, and adventurous - and massively frustrating at the same time. 

If you haven’t worked it out already you’re not just dating a surfer, you’re dating surfing too, they come as a package. 

You’ve been warned…

Yew!

Rowan

PRO’S OF SURFING ALONE

NO COMPROMISE

How often is it that you call up a friend for a surf and you’re given conditions - “I’ll be ready in about an hour”, “let’s not surf there, let’s surf here instead”...

There’s always a compromise. 

Surfing alone eradicates all of this.

Your call, your time frame, your choice - every time.

LESS CROWDS

Surfing with friends is fun don’t get me wrong, but that means sharing out the waves with them too - which equals less waves for you. 

Surfing alone allows you to be selfish, and take all the waves for yourself.

PEACE AND QUIET

Surfing with friends comes with a certain amount of chat. 

Great for the beach, but often unwanted in the surf. 

Surfing solo gives you that bit of me-time, that time alone, just you immersed in the ocean.

And it’s not often you get that time nowadays. 

CONS OF SURFING ALONE

SAFETY

Surfing alone means that no ones got your back, if anything happens, you’re on your own. 

Snap your leash, get cramp, injure yourself, it’s on you.

Nobody is coming to rescue you. 

That’s why surfing alone should only be done if you’re very experienced.

SHARE THE STOKE

Have you ever got a tube, done a turn, or had a sick wave - and done it all in front of your mate? 

There’s no better feeling. 

In fact, I’d go as far as to say it makes things easily 33% better just having the witness. 

I know it’s all just massaging the ego, but hey, we’re all human right?

When you surf alone you miss this ego boosting opportunity. 

Shallow, granted, but true nonetheless.

STORIES

Sharing an epic surf with friends stays with you for years, something you can reminisce and reflect back on for a lifetime. 

Surfing by yourself robs you of all that joy, and all the shared stories that go alone with it.

MORE EXPENSIVE

If you have to travel to surf, surfing with a friend will help to share the costs of transport. 

Surfing alone however means the buck falls with you, and can soon burn a hole in your wallet.

NO PEER PRESSURE

Peer pressure gets a bat wrap nowadays, but it definitely has it's time and place. 

Surfing with friends will encourage you to take a few extra risks, maybe to take off on a wave you wouldn't usually, or surf when it's out of your comfort zone. 

All this comes from surfing with other people, and it's something that gets missed surfing alone. 

CONCLUSION

Is it better to surf alone, or is it better to surf with friends.

There’s a time and a place to surf solo, don’t get me wrong, but I think surfing with friends trumps it all. 

Life is better when shared with others, even if it does come with some downsides. 

Embrace it all, and just get in the water more regardless.

Yew!

Rowan

10 DIFFERENT TYPES OF WAVE BREAKS EXPLAINED

There are a lot of different wave types out there, each with their unique character. 

Let's take a closer look at each.

BEACH BREAK

A beach break is what most people learn to surf on, and it’s the type of wave break that’s most popular. 

Beach breaks will break onto a sand bottom, and are found at all beaches around the world. 

Famous beach break examples:

SHOREBREAK

A shorebreak is a nuanced version of a beach break. 

Yes, it still breaks on sand, and yes, it holds many of the same characteristics of a beach break too, but the difference is in how it breaks.

A shorebreak (aka shorey), will come out of deep water and break in shallow water close to the shore.

Shorebreak waves will often be more powerful, barrel, and be one heck of a lot of fun. 

Famous shorebreak examples:

BOMBIE

A bombie is another type of beach break wave that breaks far out to sea only in very big swells. 

Famous bombie waves:

WEDGE

A wedge is a unique type of wave, very different to all the others on this list.

In simple terms, a wave will travel to shore at a certain angle, it then hits a fixed object - a rock jetty, a cliff, etc. - then rebounds back across the beach. 

This rebounding wave travelling across the beach will merge with another wave travelling towards the shore.

Then something cool happens.

As the two waves meet they jack up into an apex and basically double in size. 

It’s these types of wave breaks that are often novelties, but damn are they fun.

Famous wedge examples: 

REEF BREAK

Reef breaks are waves that break over shallow rocks. 

The rocks provide a platform for the wave to break in a very consistent way which is why surfers love to ride them.

They’ll oftentimes be hollow and powerful too.

Reef breaks are where surfers tend to get the best, most consistent barrel rides, and they make up the majority of the best waves in the world. 

Famous reef break waves:

SLAB

A slab is a type of reef break, but one that’s very unique. 

A slab will be an extremely shallow rock shelf, that backs onto very deep water which makes the swell that hits it be incredibly powerful. 

Unlike most other waves that will gradually go from deep water to shallow, reducing the power of the wave as it goes, slabs just go from swell, to wave in an instant. 

It’s these types of wave breaks that surfers will take off on crazy late drops into enormous, thick tubes. 

The wave itself is usually very short, and very intense. 

Famous slab waves:

POINT BREAK

Point breaks are waves that wrap around a land mass, like a headland, that causes the waves to refract and break along its side.

Unlike the other waves on this list the wave itself will travel down the land point creating long, open faced waves. 

And it’s at point break waves that surfers are able to get the longest rides. 

Famous point break waves:

TIDAL WAVES

Tidal waves are (you guessed it) created by the tides. 

They only occur in places with extremely large tidal ranges, and only on the biggest of spring tides, but when do, they’re a sight to behold. 

A tidal surge will travel upstream, creating a wave which will break as it hits the shallow sand banks underneath. 

These tidal waves will throw up some of the longest waves on the planet.

Famous tidal waves:

RIVER WAVE

River waves are standing, stationary waves that occur in rivers. 

As the water flows downstream it’s interrupted by a shallow underwater shelf that creates a perpetually breaking wave.

If surfers position themselves correctly they are able to ride this stationary river wave indefinitely. 

Famous river waves:

WAVE POOL

Wave pools have been around for a long time, but they’ve seriously gained popularity in recent years. 

There are a variety of different wave pool types, each with their own unique flavour and spice, but the fundamentals remain the same - the waves are man made. 

Famous wave pool waves:

CONCLUSION

So many different types of wave breaks, so little time. 

If you’re lucky you’ll have had a chance to try out a few, and if you’re really lucky you may have tried out the lot.

Either way, there’s so many different types of wave breaks to test your skills and explore, each providing a unique look and feel each time. 

That’s what makes surfing so damn alluring right?

Here, here.

Yew!

Rowan

BOX BREATHING

Box breathing is a powerful breathing technique to hack your brain, allowing you take control over the body primeval unconscious responses.

Box breathing emphasis control through counts of four on both the in and out breath allowing your automatic nervous systems to maximise the full use of oxygen into the body.

Deep breathing has long been promoted for it's long list of health benefits on both the mental and physical body and box breathing is a simple tool you can use to effectively develop better breathing habits.

Thankfully our subconscious mind automates our breathing so we can focus on more pressing issues - like what's for dinner...

However by simply bringing our awareness to our breath we can greatly enhance our inner and outer emotional state.

What this means is our breathing has a direct link to how we are currently feeling.

This is crucial to building more confidence in the water.

To put this simply:

Deep Breathing = Greater Confidence.

THE CONNECTION TO BREATH AND EMOTIONAL STRESS

When we're feeling anxious, fearful and lacking in confidence our minds tend to race away with thoughts and future scenarios.

Our mind seeks more validation of ‘why not to go in’ or ‘why not to take off on that steep drop’ so its goes around in a looping pattern of negative and fearful thoughts.

If you have experienced anxiety, you will know all too well how this pattern works.

When we connect our minds back to our breath we help to redirect our thoughts.

"Your breath is always the anchor to the present moment"

Connecting ourselves back to the present moment through our breath helps to ground our energy and stop negative looping though patterns from continuing.

Box breathing promotes deep full inhale and exhale breaths which helps to calm and regulate the automatic nervous system.

This invites a calm and centred emotional state which creates more confidence and enhances greater self belief.

When you develop a great sense of confidence with your surfing, this then has a domino effect on:

You no longer live in the doldrums of what if ... but I can!

It's a huge shift in your mindset.

I’ve used a specific technique called Box Breathing which has personally helped me to see some huge results in my own surfing.

DEVLOP BETTER BREATHING HABITS

Developing better breathing habits and using a tool like box breathing can help to bring greater confidence to your surfing and any situations in which you feel scared, vulnerable or out of your comfort zone.

Box Breathing can be used as an excellent anchor for when you need a confidence boost.

Try it out for real...

If your surfing out the back and you feel it's a stretching your ability, simply take a couple of minutes on your board to practice a round or two of box breathing and you will soon feel the positive effects.

Better still the more you practice box breathing throughout your day the more you will see longer lasting results. 

BECOME AN EXPERT IN YOUR COMFORT ZONE 

Is it actually beneficial to always push yourself?

I am all fall for pushing your comfort zones and breakthrough new paradigms. In fact, I would go as far to say that I thrive in this area of my life.

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m actually a little addicted to these situations because of the spike of domaine you get afterwards and sense of accomplishment.

Throughout my year, I will often have personal goals associated with scenarios or events which I find challenging.

I do this purposefully so I can prove to myself that anything is achievable.

But when it comes to confidence in your surfing, this is when I draw the line and I have a completely different approach. 

I'm going to give you a little analogy which I feel will really help you to understand this a little better.

Can you see what I'm getting at here?

SOLID FOUNDATION IS THE KEY TO YOUR CONFIDENCE

You don’t need to go to the very limits of your ability all the time. 

If you want to build your confidence you first need to become an expert in your comfort zone and only then move forward to the next level.

This is so underestimated yet deeply important in your learning curve.

It’s about building on solid foundations and making sure your 100% comfortable within your ability and certain types of surf conditions and only then, do you make the step up to new challenges.

When you do this, you're building on a solid framework which will only assist with increasing your confidence.

You see a lot of surf coaches pushing their clients too early on in their
learning which ultimately results in a negative or unpleasant experiences.

And, it can take a loooong time bouncing back from such an event.

GET REALLY GOOD WITHIN YOUR ABILITY

So weather your beginning to learn how to duck dive or maybe you’re transitioning into cutbacks.

Stay within this specific learning zone until your absolutely 100% confident and comfortable to move onto something new.

Picture B: Positive Confidence Loop

When you adapt this formula to your surfing you can begin to appreciate why you maybe suffering from a lack of confidence.

There are a couple of key strategies which you can implement immediately and will really help you to see some big changes in your confidence.

CREATE ANCHORS FOR BETTER OUTCOMES

What we are hoping to achieve here is, is to associate the emotional feeling of confidence with the physical sensation of the anchor.

Now I want you to be aware of The Emotion Loop next time you go for a surf. Especially when your feeling a lack of confidence.

The next thing I want you to practice is anytime you’re feeling like a superhero, remember to press your anchor.

The reason why this is important is because next time your surfing and your feeling fearful or maybe you are out of your comfort zone, your anchor will help bring your awareness back to the times when you felt super confident.

This will help trigger the positive self fuelling loop.

When you get into the habit of using your anchor, you help to distract the mind and via it off the negative loop and back onto the positive loop.

When you use this tool correctly it can be one of the most powerful and quick solutions to help boost your confidence in and out of the water.

CONCLUSION

The mind is a complex muscle and this is only a teaser of the many tools and techniques to help boost your confidence.

One thing I do know for certain. 

Anyone you know who displays phenomenal confidence has worked hard on themselves.

It takes the inner worker to start seeing the results on the outside. 

Boosting your confidence isn’t an overnight success story. 

But with the right steps it won’t take long for your to start seeing some results in your surfing.

"Bring your superhero confidence into your surfing and your surfing will skyrocket"

There is nothing better than learning, growing and living to your full potential in this life. 

Now I want to hear from you...

Let me in the comments below if there are any tips that specifically have helped you build your confidence in your surfing.

I would love to hear how you get on with the tips I’ve suggested .

Now over to you.

With love 

Lauren

P.s If you would like to know the exact box breathing technique then click here.

WHAT IS THE MAMMALIAN DIVE REFLEX?

The mammalian dive reflex is a physiological, and biological response to immersion in water (especially cold water).

The reflex occurs when submerged in water, and it can even be triggered by just dunking your face in, or even splashing water over it for that matter.

This contact with water triggers the body to switch into underwater mode (often referred to as the Master Switch), preparing the body to conserve oxygen for prolonged periods underwater. 

Essentially, the mammalian dive reflex taps into the part of our genes from when we were fish all those years ago, helping us to stay underwater for longer.

And it’s not just something that occurs in humans either.

In fact this same reflex happens to all air breathing vertebrates (a vertebrate is an animal with a backbone/spine).

BABIES AND THE MAMMALIAN DIVE RESPONSE

Have you ever seen a baby just chilling underwater?

Eyes open, smiling, even doing breast stroke whilst they’re at it. 

That's the mammalian dive response in action right there.

Furthermore, babies can comfortably hold their breath underwater for longer than most adults, often for 30-40 seconds or more comfortably (strangely this ability is something that’s lost when they begin walking).

They didn’t learn how to do this, it’s just a natural response to immersion in water.

And when you think about it, it kind of makes sense.

As little embryo’s we grow fins before we grow feet.

And we spend our entire time in the womb in fluid that’s 99% the same as sea water too.

In fact, during the first five weeks of conception a fetus will have two heart chambers, just like fish do, and what's crazy is that human blood is 98% identical to sea water as well.

All in all, we’re much more fish-like than you think.

HOW THE BODY IS AFFECTED BY THE MAMMALIAN DIVE RESPONSE

As previously mentioned, some pretty crazy stuff happens to the body during this hard-wired response. 

So, what are the changes happening in the body during the diving reflex?

Let’s find out:

HEART RATE DROP

Upon immersion in water the heart rate drops (bradycardia) immediately. 

For normal folk like you and me the heart rate will drop by around 10-30%, and for experts - big wave surfers and free divers - a heart rate reduction of up to 50% can occur.

Why is this important?

Well, a lower heart rate means you burn through less oxygen helping you stay underwater for longer.

Helping free divers dive deeper, and surfers stay under for longer too.

BLOOD FLOW REDIRECTION

Blood flow is redirected away from the extremities of the body - hands, arms, feet, and legs - to preserve energy, and focus the distribution of oxygenated blood to the vital organs like the heart and brain.

This blood flow response is known scientifically as peripheral vasoconstriction, and it’s basically the narrowing of the blood vessels to reduce blood flow to the areas that need it least.

BLOOD SHIFT

The deeper you go underwater, the more the atmospheric pressure increases.

In fact, the atmospheric pressure underwater doubles every 10m!

It’s that pressure that causes your ears to pop underwater, and it does some wild things to the body’s anatomy too.

Now, because the blood is redirected away from the extremities like we outlined above, there’s now an abundance of blood circulating the vital organs. 

Where does all this excess blood go?

Good question.

As the atmospheric pressure around the body increases, it puts pressure on the lungs.

And just like a balloon will shrink in size as it’s pulled down to depths underwater, so too will your lungs, and the additional space created due to the smaller lung size will now be occupied by higher volumes of blood. 

Pretty neat if you ask me.

Now they used to think that the maximum depth the lungs could handle would be about 100ft, however they’ve since gone on to smash past that threshold diving to depths of 600ft and beyond.

The body truly is amazing right.

HOW TO TRIGGER THE MAMMALIAN DIVE REFLEX

The mammalian dive response is triggered in the following ways:

One thing to note too, is that the reflex is triggered faster - and more emphatically - when all the above exposed to cold water rather than warm.

This cold water exposure has led to some incredible survival stories of people being underwater for upwards of forty minutes and still surviving to tell the tale.

SOME CRAZY UNDERWATER MAMMALIAN DIVE REFLEX STATS

HOW DOES THE MAMMALIAN DIVE REFLEX HELP SURFERS?

I'd love to say that the mammalian dive reflex will help you to stay under water for minutes on end during a wipeout, or when a wave breaks on you, unfortunately though, you have the fight and flight response to overcome on that front first - which is no joke.

However, in dropping the heart rate this reflex is what gives us that really nice sensation we experience when we come in from a surf.

Centred, rejuvenated, and satisfied.

Just one of the many health benefits of surfing.

Even when you have the worst surf ever you always feel better for it afterwards right?

And that's down to our good friend the mammalian dive response.

WRAPPING IT UP

How does this relate to surfing?

Well we spend half our time in the ocean, so it’s good to know what’s going on in the body when we’re out there.

And in knowing this, it’s no surprise that you feel so damn nice after each surf too.

Built into our genetic makeup, this hard-wired physiological response of the mammalian dive reflex happens to us without even thinking.

Maybe this is why surfers are known for being so laid back? 

Who knows.

Regardless, this stuff is mighty interesting and food for thought to say the least.

Yew!

Rowan