CONSTRUCTION DIFFERENCES (WHAT'S UNDER THE HOOD)

Ok, so there’s a bunch of confusion over the terminology between PU and Epoxy boards, so let’s just set the record straight on that first:

PU (POLYURETHANE)

PU or Polyurethane refers to the material construction of the surfboard foam blank.

PU blanks are glassed using fibreglass cloth, and Polyester resin.

EPOXY

Epoxy surfboards are made from EPS foam (Expanded Polystyrene) blanks.

These EPS foam blanks are glassed using fibreglass cloth, and Epoxy resin. 

SO... WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

Looks the same, smells the same, but don’t work the same. 

Yup, there are some big differences between PU & Epoxy surfboards:

STRENGTH

FLEXIBILITY

WEIGHT

FEEL

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER

Sure, there are some differences in performance between the different construction types, but that's not all:

PRICE

A quick internet search will show you that there's a distinct difference in price between Epoxy and PU, but why is that? 

Put simply, they're more costly and are time consuming to produce:

So you'll need to bare in mind the price differential when choosing your next board. 

REPAIR

You're going to ding your board at some point, and that's going to mean repairs, and repairing an Epoxy is way more of a headache than fixing a PU.

First up, EPS blanks hate any water, so when you get a ding you've really got to get that thing fixed quickly - so no shoving wax in that thing. 

Secondly, the repair process is more complex, as the resin is harder to work with. Whereas with a PU you can get away with bogging it with a bit of Solarez, with Epoxy it can be a bit more complex. 

Sure, you can get away with botch job for a bit, but the fix job can shrink over time opening the ding back up to water penetration - so unless you're an expert, it's probably better to get it fixed by a professional which ain't cheap.

WHICH WAVES SUIT WHICH TYPE?

So we can see that PU and Epoxy surfboards have quite different characteristics, but how does that effect them in the waves?

SMALL WAVES: 1-2FT

In small waves, generating and maintaining speed is a big deal; being able to glide over flat sections, pump, float and turn. 

This requires a surf craft that’s light, with lots of float.

Which is why lots of surfers will opt for Epoxy's in waves in this bracket. 

MEDIUM WAVES: 3-6FT

As the waves increase in size, so too does their power - making speed generation and maintenance less of an issue. 

At this size, things like drive, how your board holds through turns, and how much you can lay it on rail become more important. 

These things generally require a little more weight in the board, or the ability for the board to cut through the water rather than float above it - all characteristics of a PU board. 

Plus, this is where that flex comes in too, adding extra spring and zip through turns. 

BIG WAVES: 6FT+

Bigger waves require a different approach altogether.

If you’re a WCT surfer you’re going to be attacking these waves just like us normal surfers attack a head high wave. 

But for us norms, we usually surf these bigger waves much differently.

Generally speaking we’ll take much straighter lines, and surf much more conservatively than normal, which makes things like ‘hold’ and ‘drive’ more important. 

At this size too, generally a little extra weight is welcomed as it helps the board to cut through any chop on the waves, and slice into the water as you turn.

As such, PU is generally the preferred option at this size. 

WHAT SHOULD I CHOOSE?

If you're a beginner to intermediate surfer, the performance nuances between construction type will largely go unfelt, with the differences being so subtle. 

Furthermore, the type of waves you'll be surfing day to day will rarely get over the 4-5ft bracket. 

The main things for you to consider at this level will be price, weight, and durability, which can make Epoxy a good choice. 

If you're an intermediate or advanced surfer you have a few more things to consider: 

What size waves do you normally surf?

What type of surfing do you like to do: Traditional or Progressive?

Will you have more than one surfboard?

Surfers at this level will tend to have a quiver of boards designed for specific wave types. 

They'll generally choose Epoxy for small wave grovel boards, PU for high performance waves, and PU for bigger waves.

WRAPPING IT UP

Above and beyond everything that's written in this article is personal preference, and there's no right or wrong. 

Take Kai Lenny for example, he chooses to ride Epoxy in the biggest waves in the world, and you'll also see countless WCT surfers ridding PU boards in waist-high waves too. 

So ultimately it all depends on the individual. 

For my two cents, if you're going with a one-board quiver, get yourself an Epoxy as it'll last longer (if you look after it), and will work well enough in all conditions. 

Arthur Villa (12 Years Old)

As more and more kids are able to land crazy punts nowadays, without a change like this we’re just going to see the world's best surfers, surfing the world's best waves, hunting closeout ramps the whole time. 

Yuk.

And my guess is too that with the new crop of exciting women coming through the ranks (think Erin Brooks, Sierra Kerr, etc.) that airs are going to become a big deal in the Women's side of things too - and they need to get the scoring right before it ruins the sport. 

But that’s just what I think. 

I want to know, am I on to something? Or am I just barking at the moon? 

Let me know your thoughts in the comments.

WHAT IS A PECKING ORDER IN SURFING?

If you ask the Oxford Dictionary you’ll get this answer: 

“A pecking order is a hierarchy of status seen among members of a group of people or animals, originally as observed among hens.”

And this sums it up perfectly. 

Just as in the animal world there is a status game, creating order out of chaos, the same thing exists in surfing. 

Put simply, the higher your status at a certain break, the closer to the front of the queue you can sit. 

...which means you get to cherry pick the waves you want. 

But this status isn’t something you just get, it must be earned. 

HOW TO EARN STATUS AT PIPE

Gaining status and earning your stripes at Pipeline is not easy, nor quick, and likely impossible for most of us regular surfers. 

For us, we’ll be cast away from the peak having to settle for mere scraps for life. 

But if you’re good enough, are brave enough, and really want to cement a spot in the lineup here’s what you’re going to have to do:

BE HAWAIIAN

With 95% of all the surfers in the Pipeline hierarchy list either coming from, or living in Hawaii, it's safe to say that being Hawaiian helps. 

Not essential, but definitely a plus. 

BE A BIT MENTAL

To earn a spot in the pecking order you’ve got to be willing to go on the biggest, scariest waves out there - repeatedly. 

Pulling back on waves you should have gone is a cowardly act, something that won’t go un-missed, kissing goodbye to any respect you’ll have in the lineup. 

BE REALLY GOOD

It’s no good being a hell-man, throwing yourself over the ledge of a 10ft first reef double up, if you don’t have the skills to make it. 

If you want to earn a spot in the Pipeline hierarchy, you’ve got to be one of the best out there, not just the bravest. 

PUT IN THE TIME

Earning your stripes at Pipe doesn’t mean coming there for one season, snagging a decent wave, and that’s it. 

Not even close. 

Try maybe ten to fifteen FULL seasons, where you’re out there every single time it breaks, and then get back to me. 

BE RESPECTFUL

If you want to earn your way into the Pipeline hierarchy, you’ve got to lead with respect. 

You’ve got to know who the OG’s are in the lineup, who has priority over who, which waves you’re allowed to catch, and importantly which waves you’re not. 

Respect the locals, respect the wave, respect the rules.

In the words of shaper John Pyzel, "...if you think it's your wave out at Pipe, it's not".

PIPELINE HIERARCHY LIST, & HOW IT WORKS

Ok, like I said earlier in this post there is an order to the chaos, and it goes as follows:

TIER ONE: OLD OG PIPELINE LEGENDS

These are the guys that have grown up on the North Shore, and dedicated their lives to the wave.

They’ve put in more time out there than anyone else, and they’re known and respected by everyone. 

These OG’s have their spot right on the peak at Pipeline & Backdoor. 

Their pack - which consists of around 20 people - will share and rotate waves, fully understanding who’s next in line, and sharing the bigger set waves between them. 

List of famous surfers in this group:

TIER TWO: PIPELINE SPECIALISTS

Sitting just underneath the Pipeline OG’s you’ll find the current generation of Pipeline devotees. 

These will be your guys that have grown up on these shores (or been coming to Hawaii for 20+ years), dedicating every winter season to charging this wave. 

List of surfers in this group:

TIER THREE: YOUNG UP AND COMERS

Local talent that have been making a name for themselves, earning their stripes year upon year, putting the time in out in the line up. 

These guys have some way to go before moving up into the next tier, regardless they command a respect in the lineup, and have earned their place.

Surfers in this group:

TIER FOUR: THE SHIT SHOW

This is where everyone else gets to fight amongst themselves. 

100+ surfers all fighting for scraps, oftentimes waiting hours to catch a single wave. 

This group includes kooks, good surfers, and travelling pro’s from around the world, even guys on the WCT - all scratching to snag a wave. 

Hectic!

List of surfers in this group:

HOW IS THE HIERARCHY POLICED?

Good question. 

Well, usually by violence - especially back in the day (a group known as the Wolf Pack)

Step out of line and you can expect things to escalate rapidly, with bust ups on the beach a regular occurrence. More back in the day when things were a bit more gnarly, but still a reality for anyone that steps out of line. 

What exactly does stepping out of line look like?

Put simply, be respectful and understand the rules of the lineup.

Know your place, and surf accordingly. 

WRAPPING IT UP

From the outside looking in it looks like a mob of angry dudes trying to police the lineup for their own greed. 

A dictatorial approach, with rules enforced by fear and violence - greedily taking all the spoils for themselves. 

Now those things are all bad in my book, but, Pipeline is a different beast.

Here’s why:

It’s dangerous as hell: This wave has claimed more lives than any other. Surfing here when it's big is no joke.

It’s the most crowded lineup in the world: With such a crowded lineup, and so many people hassling for so few waves, an order must be present to maintain safety. 

Locals vs Tourists: For eight months of the year the North Shore is surfed almost exclusively by its locals, then for four frenetic months the entire surfing world descends upon its shores, swarming every lineup on its coast. 

The locals here surf it everyday (not just in the winter), and as such deserve their waves when it gets good. 

So in short, is it a good thing, if you ask me, yes it is.

It rewards the people that have dedicated their lives to surfing the wave, and it maintains a level of safety and order for everyone else.

Let’s take a look at some stats. 

Ok, so we don't have a tonne of historical data from Cloudbreak as its been off tour for a while, but we do have a bunch of data from waves that require a similar skillset - namely a monster set of balls (or ovaries), and an ability to ride big tubes over shallow reefs. 

Felipe's results over the past six years look like this:

These results tell a sobering story. 

In waves of consequence, Felipe really doesn't fair very well. 

Let's compare that to his mastery in small waves, at let's say, hmmm, at a destination like Trestles:

He's bagged three wins, a second and a third in the past five events at Trestles, that's some frickin record. 

Now lets compare that to his likely two biggest challengers Jon Florence and Gabriel Medina in those waves of consequence. 

These are the guys that he's likely going to be up against, and here's how they've faired in the same time period. 

Jon Florence:

Gabriel Medina:

In stark contrast to Felipe these results highlight some crazy things. 

First up, these two surfers excel in waves of consequence (when they’re not too busy being injured that is), and secondly, Gabe pretty much wins all the time.

Couple these crazy stats with the prospect of a best of three format and it’d appear that Felipe has next to no chance of winning ever again. 

What can he do to improve his odds?

Well lets be fair, it's much harder to surf as technically well as Felipe does in small waves than it is to get tubed over dry reef, so we know he's got the natural ability to be great at it. 

But he's got to get over the fear barrier to get there. 

Easier said than done, and not everyone enjoys hucking themselves into 8ft double-ups over dry reef. 

But day to day exposure, and a will to adapt and familiarise himself in these conditions could see him turn the tide on his bad form in big, hollow waves, but he's got to want it. 

Is he willing to eat that shit sandwich and go spend the time he needs to master these waves? 

Or will he be content bagging the two world titles and calling it a day? 

It remains to be seen, but unless there's some big changes the odds of Felipe ever winning another world title are slim to none.

- Rowan

With a boat load of World Title trophies under her belt she had the swagger, the skill, and the talent to back it up.

Wearing it like a true champ.

Other notable wearers of white are Koloke Andino (who’s regularly been seen surfing in his white wetsuit at Lowers) and to a degree, Mick Fanning also. 

And that’s about it. 

It’s a small list for a reason.

WHAT DOES THIS INFO TELL US?

It tells us that unless you're good, like really good, you should NEVER, EVER, even think of donning a white wetsuit in the surf. 

Why?

Cause you’ll look like a fool.

You’ve got to be able to seriously walk the walk, not just talk the talk to pull that shit off. 

Don’t believe me?

Take yourself out to a crowded lineup in your white wetsuit and just witness the judgement and utterings of “what a cock” as you paddle past. 

EXCEPT IN THESE CIRCUMSTANCES…

In online forums the subject of white wetsuits comes up from time to time, with vitriolic trolling as you’d expect. 

But one commenter had a point:

“I personally looked into getting one because I don’t want anything mistaking me for a seal”

Now I for one think that Wide-Independence525 has a point. 

Seals are black and look all rubbery and blubbery - like many over 40’s men surfing nowadays. 

Now couldn’t sharks, big fucking white pointy ones, make the mistake of thinking said surfer is a seal?

Damn right it could. 

Which throws us an unexpected curveball…

So not only is it the elite of the elite that should wear white wetsuits, but also slightly overweight, middle aged men or women for that matter.

Now as a slightly overweight middle aged man myself, I’d rather get eaten by a shark than risk looking like an absolute kook surfing in a white wetsuit in front of another human.

SO TO WRAP THIS UP

White wetsuits are impractical: They’re colder than they need to be, and they get dirty as hell instantly. 

They should only be worn if you’ve won a world title (or are of that calibre). 

Fat surfers should risk getting eaten by a shark rather than wear the shame of surfing lame in a white wetsuit. 

The end. 

WHERE ARE THE BIGGEST WAVES IN THE WORLD?

Now there are a few people out there that would give you a completely different list to the one I'm about to share with you, but trust me when I say - not all big waves are created equal. 

Yes, this is a list of the biggest waves in the world, but that accounts for more than just height, but how heavy and gnarly they are too. 

This is the list big wave surfers would tell you, not some keyboard warrior chump sitting on their couch at home. 

THE BIGGEST WAVE EVER RECORDED

Alright, I told you in the intro I'd tell you about a wave that'd dwarf everything on this list, and here it is, Lituya Bay, Alaska.

Guilty I get it, it's not a typical wave that's generated by wind, but I think it deserves an honourable mention in this post. 

Lituya Bay is a protected inlet that ships in the North Sea use to protect themselves from storms. The inlet itself is a shaped a little like a funnel, with a small opening on one end, and a glacier at the other. 

During the night of July 9, 1958, something crazy happened (and not for the first time either) whereby a huge chunk of glacier fell, creating its own Tsunami. 

This wave - as it funnelled into the inlet - jacked up to extreme heights, at its peak reaching 915m tall!

Yup you read that right.

How did anyone live to tell this tale?

They didn't have to, as one look at the geography of this zone will tell everything you need to know. 

With rich pine forests scaling the mountains coming to an abrupt stop, whereby all soil, all vegetation is completely stripped from the mountainside. 

A true freak of nature of a wave, that's scary even just to think about. 

WHAT'S THE BIGGEST WAVE EVER SURFED?

The biggest wave ever surfed was ridden by Sebastian Steudtner at the iconic big wave spot Nazare, on the West Coast of Portugal in October 2020. 

The wave height was measured at 86ft

CONCLUSION

Measuring the biggest waves in the world is a subjective process, and you'll get a different list depending on who you speak to. 

But I reckon I've done a good job here in giving you a list of the worlds biggest waves - that big wave surfers themselves would tip their hats to. 

Yew!
Rowan

And a whole lot more.

There's a lot to get through in this ultimate guide, so buckle up, and let's go!

WHAT IS A POINT BREAK?

A point break is a type of wave that breaks along/across a prominent piece of land, such as:

What makes them unique is the way the waves bend and wrap around the point, creating mechanical waves that can peel and break for miles - literally. 

In fact the longest point in the world, Chicama in Chile, can break for up to 8km!.

Point breaks are coveted in the surfing community as they offer up the longest rides, and break in a predictable way.

HOW IS A POINT BREAK DIFFERENT TO A BEACH BREAK OR REEF?

The biggest difference between a points and other styles of breaks is the way a swell has to wrap around a headland (or point if you will). 

This wrapping, or refracting if you prefer, is what sets point breaks apart from everything else with the waves moving down adjacent to the point, rather than perpendicular. 

But let’s take a closer look at how they differ below:

POINT BREAK VS BEACH BREAK

Beach breaks face perpendicular to ocean swells, and as such they don’t break for as long, or as predictably as a point break would.

Instead, the direction a wave will break depends largely on the swell direction, and the under water topography, or sandbanks as they’re known. 

Typically, a beach break will throw up short, unpredictable rides breaking in either direction, left or right, and will very greatly depending upon the tides too. 

POINT BREAK VS REEF BREAK

There are a lot of similarities between a reef breaks and points, but some key differences in there too. 

Reef breaks will break on rock, or coral - as too will some point breaks. 

But the difference is in the refracting of the swell around a headland or point that sets them apart. 

The wrapping nature of a swell will allow the swell to run down the point rather than focusing straight in on it.

Not to confuse you, but you can have a reef break that follows all the same mechanics of a point; how it breaks, swell refraction etc. but it’s still not classed as a point break because it’s not connected to a land mass.

Take Restaurants in Fiji for example (ref image above), a reef break wave where the swells wrap and roll down the reef, but because it’s not connected to land, it’s considered a reef break and not a point.

POINT BREAK VS RIVER MOUTH

River Mouths are similar in so many ways to a points, yet very different too. 

A river mouth will throw up long peeling, predictable waves that break along a sandy bottom, oftentimes breaking for hundreds of meters. 

The big difference though is how the waves are formed. 

A point break is formed either from sand deposits from swells that wrap around a headland to create the sand banks, or from rocky outcrops or reefs that shape the headland itself.

River Mouths on the other hand are created by sand and silt deposits from a river flowing out to sea.

As sand and silt flow out from the river they sink to the bottom to create a sand bar, and if everything aligns this sand and silt deposit will create long, sand bottom peeling waves that can be fun as hell.

Mundaka in Spain, is the most famous (pictured above) River Mouth in surfing. 

LIST: THE WORLD’S BEST POINT BREAKS

Want to know where the best point breaks for surfing in the world can be found?

Keep reading...

JEFFREY'S BAY, SOUTH AFRICA

One of the worlds longest right-hand points, breaking over a rocky shelf in South Africa. 

An iconic spot, famous for its long stretched out walls, tubes, and its crazy marine life (yes, this is where famously Mick Fanning was attacked by a great white).

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/An63LMgFGjVL8c746

SUPER-BANK, AUSTRALIA

The jewel in the crown of Australia's East Coast, the Super Bank (a largely man-made phenomenon) is known world wide as one of the best points on the planet. 

Expect sand bottom tubes, and long open walls - expect too a hell of a lot of people, as this is one of the most crowded surf spots in the world!

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/An63LMgFGjVL8c746

RINCON POINT, CALIFORNIA

Rincon is a mellow right-hand point break in California, a natural footers dream. 

On it's day it can rival anywhere, but as with most famous breaks you can expect a crowd, as this is one of the best waves on the California coast. 

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/MC7U31RvTiQBaE5f6

CHICAMA, CHILE

Officially the longest wave in the world!

Chicama in Chile spans roughly 8km, with multiple sections and take-off spots to choose from. 

The place itself might not be the most beautiful, but if you're after left handers that run for literally miles, you've found your spot.

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/LBuzcoc1m44xMEcB8

RAGLAN, NEW ZEALAND

Raglan is home to the most iconic wave in New Zealand. 

A series of point breaks in fact, stretching out from the beach across multiple headlands, the long left-handers are a goofy footers dream.

If you're surfing in New Zealand you absolutely have to check this place out. 

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/avQNygPJtodb2aEf8

SKELETON BAY, NAMIBIA

Discovered in an online surf competition back in the day where the public would scour Google Earth for potential, unknown world class waves, and boy did they find a gem.

Quite possibly the best wave on planet earth, period. 

Surfers have been known to have tube rides here for over 30seconds, WTF!

NOOSA HEADS, AUSTRALIA

Noosa's famous points are quite possibly the most beautiful in the world.

Sure, they may not offer top to bottom tubes like the Super Bank down the coast, but if Longboarding is your jam, then you've just found your heaven. 

Sand bottom peeling right handers, amongst a backdrop of tropical national park, Koala's and all.

Read our Guide to Surfing Noosa here for more.

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/u9DiZbG6TBsMKUCR6

CONCLUSION

If you've never surfed a point break before, this is something that you just have to do.

One wave on a point like this could be the wave of your life, trust me. 

Yes they're often crowded, and yes your wave count will likely be low, but the payoffs of getting that one wave is well, well worth it.

Yew!
Rowan

After a major hamstring tear, he set out on a crazy training regime, which led to him claim the world title the very next year in spectacular fashion.

This was the catalyst that changed the way surfers prepared from that moment forward. 

Gone were the days of surfers using just surfing itself as a means of training, and in came a new wave of surfers taking things much more seriously. Rigorous training regimes and personal coaches became commonplace. 

This is when surf coaching became a real thing. 

THE RISE OF THE SURF COACH

In came a number of elite coaches, coaching the worlds best:

Now, the world's best have their own personal coaches. 

As a team they could dissect technique, address areas of weakness and fine tune their strengths. 

This acceptance of external coaching has led to the rise in everyday surfers getting help too.

Whereas in the past surfers were expected to learn everything on their own (kind of mental when you think about it), to just kind of figure it all out, now they can get expert feedback. 

This is saving many people countless hours of butting their heads against the wall. 

IS IT STILL WEIRD TO GET COACHED?

There’s still a certain stigma in surfing with getting coached, especially in older dudes. 

For whatever reason men seem to think they can do everything on their own and are reluctant to reach out for help. I get it, I'm one of them. 

Women on the other hand seem to be way more receptive, and are flocking in their hoards to surfing programs, online coaching, e-learning, the lot. 

The same goes for kids too, with after school squads and elite academy’s servicing the growing number of kids entering the sport. 

So I guess the answer to “is it still weird to get coached” is nah, not really - and it’s heading way more to “nah, not at all”.

IS COACHING WORTH IT?

First up, there's absolutely nothing wrong with just surfing for the love of it, but for me personally that's not enough. 

Surfing just for surfing's sake - without trying to get better - takes away much of the fun if you ask me. In fact the reason surfing is so addictive is because it's so damn hard. 

And yes, you can learn everything on your own to a degree (you've got to live and surf where there are plenty of people much, much better than you to learn from), but there's certainly merit in getting additional help. 

Whether coaching is worth it however depends massively on the person giving you advice, if they know what they're talking about then yup, surf coaching is definitely worth it. 

If they're full of shit however, they're feedback is worthless. 

THE BEST TYPES OF SURF COACHING

If you're looking at different ways to get coached, here are a few of the best examples:

SELF LEARNING

If you're going down the self learning route here are some valid places to start:

- Online Courses

- YouTube

- Blog Content

- Surf Videos

SURF VIDEO ANALYSIS

This one is great as you get one on one feedback with a professional coach. 

Your coach can dissect your surfing frame by frame, uncover any blindspots, and give you a crystal clear pathway of progression to follow. 

If you ask me, this is a great way to go.

SURF SCHOOLS

Surf Schools can be a good place to go for private surf lessons, but, the quality of the coaching can be a bit of a mixed bag. 

The threshold for surf coaches is very, very, very low - so it's really difficult to every know what you're getting. 

Sure, you might get a guru that's worth their weight in gold, but you might also get a stinker too, so tread with caution.

CONCLUSION

In short, the sentiment to surf coaching is changing, little by little. 

So, if you're stuck in a rut, don't just rot away like the rest of them, get some help. 

Nobody wants to be crap forever. 

Yew!
Rowan.

Just 20% of World Champions over the past 20 years have been goofy footers (word up to Gabe, and Italo).

That's a pretty wild stat.

And in the women's the results are even more startling:

WOMEN'S WORLD CHAMPS SINCE 2004

Just 10% of Women's World Champions in the past 20 years have been goofy!

So why is this?

Is it coincidence, is it just bad timing, or is the whole thing just not fair?

Let’s take a look at some possible reasons. 

TOUR SCHEDULE

There’s been a bunch of noise over the past decade about the lack of left-handers on tour, most notably from the goofy footed contingent, but they’ve got a point. 

Take this years tour schedule as an example:

Taking a look at the tour schedule a few things jump out:

With that in mind it's no wonder goofy footers on tour are pissed.

FOREHAND SURFING IS EASIER (AND MORE DYNAMIC)

Surfing forehand and backhand are completely different beasts - and they're not equal. 

Think about it for a minute, it's so much easier to add variation and be dynamic on your forehand. 

A fin blow here, a tail slide there, wrapping cutbacks, laybacks, straight airs, and crazy airs.

It's so much easier to add that variation (which is a big part of the judging criteria I might add). 

The backhand in contrast is much more limited; top to bottom, top to bottom - and that's kind of it (if you're Occy it is at least). 

The only time when backside surfing can be an advantage is in tubes, preferably big, short, heavy ones, just like Pipe and Chopes (another advantage to the regulars).

60-40 REGULAR VS GOOFY

Alright, alright I know, there are more regular footers than goofy's (roughly 60-40) and this must impact the stats right?

Sure, this must have a significant impact, but when analysed against snowboarding and skateboarding the insights are very interesting.

In street skating, 85% of the World Champs over the past 20 years have been goofy footers, that's totally counterintuitive. 

Furthermore, 58.3% of World Champion snowboarders over the past 12 years are goofy also. 

So what this tells me is that the discrepancy between the ratios of regular vs goofy footed surfers shouldn't impact the winners as much as it currently does.

HOW TO FIX IT

If this is a problem - which I think it is - it needs addressing. 

Quite simply, there needs to be an equal distribution of rights and lefts on tour, a fair playing field for all. 

Without that, who's to say we're not crowning the wrong surfers each year?

It does beg the question doesn't it. 

I mean, would Steph Gilmore have won x8 World Titles if the tour was flipped around?

I don't think so. 

How about Mick Fanning?

Do you think he'd have bagged x3 World Titles if Snapper, Bells & Jeffries Bay were all lefts?

Highly unlikely.

To end it here, goofy footers are getting unfairly discriminated against on tour and this could potentially delegitimise future world champions.

Either that, or I'm full of shit (probably the latter).

You ready?

Lets go…

SURFBOARD PARTS: THE COMPLETE LIST

We're going to be breaking each part of the surfboard down step by step, in detail below:

NOSE

The front part of a surfboard is called the ‘Nose’, and its shape helps to determine the overall outline of the surfboard itself.

STRINGER

The stringer on a surfboard is typically a thin layer of plywood that runs down the centre-line of a surfboard, binding together to two sides of the blank (the foam part of the board).

In recent times however, with the introduction of new advanced construction materials and methods, surfboards no longer stick to the traditional ply stringer at all times.

In fact, some surfboards have no stringers whatsoever, and some have stringers made from balsa wood running down the rails of the board too.

Regardless, the stringer has become synonymous with the centre-line of a surfboard, so whether it has one or not, you can still refer to the centreline as the stringer and get away with it.

DECK

The top of a surfboard is known as the deck, and this is where your feet will go.

There’s not too much to know about the deck of a surfboard as there are very few variables, however the one thing to look out for will be whether it’s really flat, or more curved.

Why is that important?

Well, the roll & shape of the deck will influence the surfboards volume overall, and the more advanced you get the more sensitive you’ll become to minor adjustments in shape like this.

RAILS

The rails are the sides of the surfboard.

They help the surfboard to grip into the waves face as you ride along it, and they impact the way a surfboard turns. 

Here are the different rail shapes to look out for:

You also get what's known as hard rails - where there is a hard sharp edge, and soft rails - where the rail is fully curved.

TRACTION PAD

Although not a part of a surfboard's anatomy as such, with so many surfers choosing to use a traction pad I couldn’t avoid adding it to this list.

A traction pad is a foam-based pad that surfers attach to their surfboards for extra grip. 

Most surfers will opt to ride with a Tail Pad (a pad just for their back foot), although it is possible to get full deck traction pads too.

LEASH PLUG

A leash plug is an accessory that is inserted into a surfboard during the manufacturing process.

The plug serves the purpose of attaching a surfer to their board via a leash. 

Insignificant at first glance, but an important part of a surfboard for sure.

LEASH/LEGROPE

A leash is a chord that attaches a surfer to their surfboard to stop it from floating away during a wipeout.

They come in different sizes and thicknesses depending upon the equipment you’re riding.

TAIL

The tail is what surfers refer to as the very back of a surfboard, and they come in lots of different shapes and sizes - purpose built for a certain feel, or way of surfing.

The type of tail shape you choose to ride will vary depending upon your ability, and they type of waves you like to surf.

Here are the most popular:

FIN PLUGS

Just like the humble leash plug above, fin plugs too are added to a surfboard during the construction phase.

In times gone by, surfers would have fixed un-removeable fins, fiberglassed onto their boards.

However in recent times - with advancements in technology - surfboards are almost exclusively made with removable fins today.

The two fin systems that have the monopoly of the market are: FCS & Future Fins.

Both have their pros and cons, but in all honesty they’re much of a muchness.

FINS

Fins attach to the bottom of a surfboard at the rear, inserted into the fin plugs. 

They help a surfer to pivot and turn their boards, and to hold speed and drive through turning manoeuvres. 

They come in a bunch of different shapes and sizes, and will vary depending upon your size, weight, and the type of surfing you’re looking to do.

Here’s what to look out for:

SURFBOARD FIN ATTRIBUTES

SURFBOARD FIN SETUPS

CONCAVE

Concaves represent the contours that shapers craft into the base of a surfboard. 

The ebbs, flows and different shapes effect the way water moves under a surfboard when riding a wave - having a surprisingly big impact on how a surfboard performs.

Here’s a list of the different types of concaves and what to look out for: 

ROCKER

Rocker refers to the overall curve that a surfboard has from tail to nose.

The size of the rocker will impact the speed of a surfboard and its ability to turn.

Generally speaking, a surfboard will have a nose rocker, and a tail rocker, with a flat section in the middle to help the board plane.

As a quick rule of thumb:

Nose Rocker: Big = Slower, and more forgiving. Small = Faster, and less forgiving.

Tail Rocker: Big = Slower, more extreme turns. Small = Faster, less extreme turns.

EPOXY OR PU

Epoxy or Pu refer to the material construction of a surfboard.

Eash has their own pros and cons, and your choice will vary depending upon the type of surfing you want to perform, and your expectations.

Here’s a breakdown of each:

PU

PU surfboards are made with a foam blank with a stringer that is shaped, then covered with fiberglass and polyester resin. This type of surfboard is popular because it is relatively inexpensive and easy to repair. PU has been the construction of choice for decades, up until recent advancements in Epoxy alternatives.

EPOXY

Epoxy surfboards are made with a lighter foam blank (with, or without a stringer) that is shaped, then covered with fiberglass and epoxy resin. The epoxy resin is stronger, lighter and more durable, although it does have some trade offs - notably in their ability to flex. 

Because of the additional complexities of shaping epoxy surfboards they tend to be more expensive overall, however as mentioned above, they are far more durable.

BOTTOM

This is a bit of weird one…

We have loads of flashy names for all the other parts of a surfboard, yet for the under side, we have none.

So, the bottom of a surfboard is called, well, the bottom.

#needtogetmorecreative

WRAPPING IT UP

If you’ve ever been unsure about the anatomy of a surfboard, what each part is called and what they do, hopefully this article has cleared all that up for you. 

Moving forward you should be able to hold your own in any surf related conversation no matter how nerdy it gets.

You can thank me later…

Yew!

Rowan